It is almost a rite of passage into adult life to be stuck with a lemon. Worse, the crummy car can be a cruel reminder of your impecunity, dragging behind it an unwelcome tailpipe belching repair bills for years to come. But there's no law that says you have to put your mechanic's kids through college every time you buy a used car. Why not buy a good car in the first place, so you won't be stranded at 1 a.m. on a Sunday in Tuba City, Arizona.
Research
You can determine the appropriate make and model for your needs by visiting dealer showrooms, reading Consumer Reports, and doing research online at Edmunds. Good pricing information can be found in the Kelley Blue Book, sold in bookstores and available online at Official Kelley Blue Book. For information about safety features, recalls, and crash test results, see the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Website, or phone (888) 327-4236. Never buy a car on the spot unless you have investigated it first. In this Internet age, anybody can find out what a vehicle is worth. The chance that you have found a dumb seller who doesn't appreciate the value of a car is low. The first thing to do is to check out the car with a database search.
Autocheck and Carfax each maintain enormous databases that contain vehicle histories (1.7 billion and 900 million vehicles, respectively) gathered from a variety of sources. By keying in the vehicle identification number (VIN), which is found in the corner of the dashboard on the driver's side, consumers can research vehicles for a modest fee. The report will indicate whether the car was damaged in a fire or flood, previously totaled, repurchased under a state lemon law, or failed an emissions test. According to Carfax, approximately 10 percent of the vehicles it checks out have some kind of problem with their histories. One of the biggest potential problems detected through a database search is title “cleansing,” which involves a distributor purchasing a car from an insurance company that has been classified “Flood Damaged” or “Salvage” and totaled. These special categories of titles exist in some states so that purchasers of the car can sell it for parts. Instead of taking them apart, however, shady operators will spruce up the cars and resell them in another state. The old title is replaced and no one is the wiser. The National Association of Independent Insurers estimates that 40 percent of all totaled cars end up back on the highways. Many of them have rusted parts and are dangerous to drive.
A tip-off to these shenanigans is a title chain that shows a migration from coastal or plains states that have had a lot of flooding to states that don't recognize such titles. Flood titles are the bigger problem. Four states issue flood titles: North Carolina, New Jersey, Virginia, and New York. (Florida discontinued flood titles in 2000, and now issues “Certificates of Destruction.”) Flood damage can usually be detected by peeling back part of the carpet and looking for rust, or by a mildewy smell in the upholstery. Another potential area of concern that a database search will illuminate is odometer fraud. Analysts estimate that 8 percent of cars have had their odometer rolled back, stripping an average of over 20,000 miles off the clock. Looking at the chain of titles and mileage, you will be able to tell if odometer fraud is likely (the database report will highlight it as well). A single report costs $14.95 from either Autocheck.com, (205) 414-2727,
AutoCheck; or Carfax,
Carfax. Both firms also offer flat rates for 60 days' unlimited usage if you plan on doing a lot of shopping around.
Test drive
Be sure to spend enough time in the driver's seat to feel comfortable. The car should hold its line on the road and not veer to one side if you take your hands off the wheel. The steering wheel should not shimmy or vibrate at highway speeds; cornering should be sure and even. Noises during cornering are usually associated with the steering components or bad wheel bearings. Squealing sounds are often loose belts but sometimes indicative of a more serious problem. Punch the accelerator and brake pedal hard to test responsiveness. Persistent clicking sounds under heavy acceleration could mean the lifters or rods are worn, and only a matter of time before an engine overhaul. Don't forget to look under the car for leaks after you drive it.
Even if a vehicle handles well and comes up clean on a database search it could turn out to be citrus. A close physical and mechanical inspection is a must. A good local garage should be able to do the job for under $100. Some AAA Motor Clubs offer standardized pre-purchase inspection services for a modest fee. Ask your mechanic to prepare an estimate for any repairs that may be required. Be sure to ask the owner for the car's maintenance records. Here are the major areas to check out:
