A lot of people want a fish pond on their property but either don’t know where to place one, how to build it, or how to maintain it. These are all good questions and I want to show you how to build a functioning, easy maintenance, healthy fish pond as inexpensively as possible. The first problem to deal with is space. How much yard do you have to spare for this project? Remember that a fish pond can be as big or as small as you like. It can consist of just a couple feet of area or it can be many acres across. The dimensions of your pond will likely be decided from just how much property you own, how hilly it is, how rocky it is, and how much you plan to spend.
A hilly landscape is actually of value to the pond builder due to the fact that it enables the owner to build elaborate, natural looking waterfalls if desired. The waterfall itself is pumped by a small, submersible pump, which also filters and aerates the water. These pumps can be purchased at virtually any pet store or even at hardware stores. The hill, of course, needs to be waterproofed and probably the easiest way to do that while maintaining a “natural” look, would be to lay down different sizes and colors of rock in whatever arrangement you desire, then cement it all in concrete so that it stays put. Make sure that your waterfall is precisely where you want it before you lay down the cement.
The pond itself, once the spot is chosen and plotted out, (you can plot it by laying out a garden hose in the desired shape and then cutting within that template.) is relatively easy to dig, as long as digging is not something you despise in the first place. A small pond approximately four or five feet in diameter, and about three feet deep, would probably be dug in an afternoon, while a somewhat larger one would understandably take longer. A large pond covering an acre or more will require heavy machinery to dig, which is expensive to rent but probably worth it in the long run if what you want is a natural looking, large pond that is capable of holding thousands of fish and water plants.
Once the pond is dug out to the desired level, keeping in mind the climate in your area and the winter-over needs of your cold water fish, (at least three feet deep in colder climates) you need to make sure that the surface is smooth and not full of sharply pointed rocks. This is called the underlayment. The purpose of the underlayment is to ensure that nothing sharp will poke holes in your plastic liner. Once that is done, it is time to lay the liner, which is made of thick, tough plastic, into the prescribed space. The liner, if made to order will fit the size and shape of your pond easily, but will probably wrinkle in several places no matter what you do, so it is actually easier to buy a generically sized pond liner, (an old tarp will do) and lay it in the hole instead. Once in place you can always trim off the excess plastic and this method is cheaper than the made to order. The inexpensive method works for all ponds except the exceptionally large ones which will require made to order pond liners.
A layer of rounded rocks and gravel is sometimes added to the bottom of the pond, but is an optional step. What this does is provide hiding places for your fish later on, to protect them from predators who find fish rather tasty. It is also good for the fry when your fish spawn in the spring, because most fish are cannibalistic and will eat their own off-spring when they get the chance. For this reason, many pond owners like to lay down a layer of protective gravel or stone or both. When water plants are added later, they also assist the fry in hiding from the adult fish. Just make sure that the stones and pebbles used are rounded rather than sharply pointed. River rocks are a good idea because they’ve already been carved into smooth angles by water current.
Once the plastic liner or tarp is in place, you will want to cover the unsightly edges of the liner in a way that makes it look decorative and or natural. This can be done with gravel, large rocks, (flat ones being especially attractive) bricks, or even wood. Plant decorative, hardy specimens of native flora nearby to assist you in hiding the pond liner. Once this is done, get out the garden hose and start filling your pond. This can take minutes, hours or days, depending on the size of the pond, and how many hoses are used. The water will be clear at first but only for a few days or so, then it turns a natural shade of green from the growing algae, which is a desirable state for a healthy pond. Your fish can eat the algae, and it actually provides oxygen for their water. Insert your hand into the water to a level of about a foot beneath the surface, and if you can still see your hand clearly, your water is a self-maintaining, healthy environment. Nothing further needs to be done to it. If you still want your water clearer so that you can see to the bottom, certain water plants like Water Hyacinths, will actually filter the water through their floating root system. Snails can help out also. Watch out though, because the Hyacinth is a prolific grower and will overcome your pond if allowed to grow unguided. It can grow into one solid mass that even prevents your fish from reaching the surface. They can easily suffocate if not enough air is pumped beneath the surface. Make sure you read the instructions carefully when buying and installing a submersible pump, so that you get as many as you need for your pond’s size.
Finally, sit back and enjoy the delightfully scenic little oasis you have created and feel pride and joy that you have built this with your own hands. Your coldwater fish, like Goldfish, Koi, and wild fish will love you for it.
