I often write about varying aspects of men's style, fashion or trends. While I have long promoted expressing masculinity, confidence and individuality through sound fashion and style practices to men, it never once occurred to me (being a happy single guy) that many of the most basic style mistakes made by men are not actually perpetrated by the men themselves but rather their wives.
At work today, I was confronted by two confused men who were debating the issue of matching the belt with the shoes. I quickly noticed that the one man was wearing a black belt with brown shoes and I erroneously assumed that it was his faux pasthat lead to the discussion. When he advised me that it was his wife who made him change his belt from brown to black before leaving the house, I understood the problem and decided to write a simple article to set out some very basic, but infallible, rules for men that always supersede your wife's fashion advice.
Belt/Shoes
The standard rule is brown belt & brown shoes, black belt & black shoes. While there are a few modifications to this basic rule but, in its simplest form, it is watertight! Your wife cannot dispute this with any authority and you may leave the house despite her protests.
As for the modifications, well, of course, there is like fabric with like fabric. For example, alligator belt with alligator loafers or canvas belt with canvas runners. Once you are comfortable with the coordinating aspect you can venture out - I like to wear a particular designer nylon belt with a pair of leather loafers from the same designer what happen to have a nylon detail. Both are black.
How about running shoes? The short answer is they if they are truly intended for athletics; they are not intended to be worn with a belt. If they are really just casual shoes worn with jeans (then hopefully they are not white!), then err on the side of caution with a simple leather belt in black. If you feel confident, you might try a canvas loop belt in complimentary colors.
One last thing on this issue, there are variations in colors and most of the time, this should not be a problem because the colors usually don't very too far either way from one another. However, be mindful of less common colors such as camel or oxblood and note that neither should be considered “brown” so you may need to purchase a coordinating piece for them.
Socks
The first rule is that socks match your pants - not your shoes, not your shirt. You can live very safely with this rule and never look back.
However, to step it up a notch, know that socks can match your pants if they are within one shade of the colour of your pants in either direction (lighter or darker). White socks (and any other color of sport socks for that matter) are absolutely to be restricted to sports or the gym. Contrary to popular myth, they have no place in casual dress with jeans. Furthermore, they cannot be worn with any other shoe besides a true running shoe. Period!
Lastly, patterns are safe with dress socks for those confident enough to do so but the main colour needs to follow the first rule. Generally, choose thin, light fabrics for the most versatility. If you are concerned about warmth, know that there are many good all-wool, dress socks that are both surprisingly thin and warm.
White Shirts
A white dress shirt is so important that every man should always have at least two in his closet (of good quality and in good shape) at any given time. These will absolutely coordinate with everything in a man's closet from his jeans to his best suits. There is no easier way to put together an easy coordinated look.
One thing I notice a lot is that most men do not try on their dress shirts before purchasing them. They simply rely on the neck size and arm length for guidance. This is such a huge mistake. With men's various statures, how can you assume that two simple measurements will be sufficient to ensure a proper and tailored fit? If you simply cannot find a shirt that fits you nicely, considering investing in a custom made shirt. It's well worth it!
Belts Vs. Suspenders
The main rule is: one or the other, never both. Suspenders are actually better for trousers than belts because they keep the trousers at the right height, whereas belts tend to allow the trousers to “drop” a little over the course of a day. This is especially true for portlier statures. However, suspenders are also somewhat more conservative and dressier. I like to wear suspenders if I know I will be keeping my jacket on all day as I personally don't believe they should ever be seen. If you prefer suspenders though, forget the “clip-on” ones - they are the distant cousin of the clip-on tie. Suspenders should be fastened to the inside of your waistband by buttons.
Suspenders should only be worn under jackets and, most importantly, are never to be worn with jeans.
Suits
If you are one of the lucky few who can get away with wearing a suit only a few times a year, make sure you have a high-quality, conservatively tailored (moderate cuts, one pleat or flat front trousers, two buttons, single-breasted) dark grey suit. A suit such as this will work in absolutely every occasion - weddings, funerals, church events, corporate events.
If you need more than one suit, add another similarly styled suit in navy blue, then brown, then black. Black suits are a luxury but not necessary. After that, if you personal situation merits adding even more, you can begin looking to the pinstripes, glen checks and window pane suits that add an extra level of style.
Unless you tend to wear a suit daily, avoid the trendier styles and opt for more timeless options. If, however, you do wear a suit often or you just like the trendier stuff, spend the most money on the timeless pieces and supplement those essentials with less expensive current pieces.
Undershirts
I personally stick to the rule that they are needed and plan to wear them under my dress shirts. They serve a purpose - they absorb perspiration and odour which not only prolongs the life of the shirt overall, but lets the shirt stay a little crisper looking throughout the day's wear. In addition, if you are of the non-waxing mindset, it prevents your body hair peaking out through your shirt.
However, even I am prepared to impart some flexibility here. Some people are abnormally dry, smooth and odorless - you guys (and only you guys) can do away with the undershirt. Unless, you need the added warmth!
Are You Ready?
Armed with these basic rules, you should be able to put together some fairly failsafe ensembles that will enable you to challenge your wife's opinion with authority. Once you have extracted the confidence that comes with having solid fashion and style abilities, only then may you begin experimenting outside these rules.
