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A Romanesque Jewel: Surgères Church

Surgères, France, not only has an important Romanesque church but also ramparts, a keep, a fort and a less known finely carved elegant Renaissance portico. The poet Ronsart urged Hélène de Surgères, retired here, "to pick up the roses of life".

The region of Aunis and Saintonge in France is known for its romanesque churches. Our Lady of Surgères (Charente Maritime) is in a feudal enceinte comprising towers and a fort. A keep and part of the lord's mansion restored in the XVIIIth century have also been saved. In the park, a magnificient Renaissance portico with fluted columns, bucranes, rosettes and triglyphs can be admired close to the church (see illustration).

The church itself is a landmark in romanesque art. The exceptional width of the West Front sculptured screen commands attention. This façade consists of horizontal lines marked by two cornices extending to the buttresses made of very impressive clustered columns.

Surgères (France) - The XIIth century church. West Front and octogonal steeple.

The curves of the seven portals are finely carved, as well as the modillions and metopes, with fancyful figures and animals. The central window is surrounded by two horsemen symbolizing the founders of the church, Hugues de Surgères and Geoffroy de Vendôme.

The octogonal steeple whose high and narrow bays, each framed with two slender columns, give the appearance of a gigantic organ.

In the nave, the bevelled angles rectangular piles form pointed equilateral arches directly supporting the timber work. These gothic arches replaced, in the XV-XVIth centuries, the romanesque arcades corresponding to the windows.

Surgères (France) - The nave of the Romanesque church.

A beautiful cupola on pendentives cover the crossing of the transepts. At the top of the huge transept piles, capitals feature the archangels Saint Michael, Raphael and Gabriel on the North side and lovely standing leonine figures on the South.

The rich choir contrasts with the outside of the sober apse. The windows with colonnettes show adorned capitals and a deeply carved frieze as a string-course of acanthus leaves runs along the wall.

In the crypt ancient paintings of the XVIth century were restored in 2003.

Surgères (France) -The enceinte, fort and Romanesque church.

Surgères (France) - The Renaissance portico with fluted columns, bucranes, rosettes and triglyphs.

Surgères (France) - The romanesque church façade.

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Comments (2)
#1 by Daziano, Oct 16, 2008
L'art roman est un peu trop sévère pour mes goûts, mais quand même je l'aime beaucoup!
#2 by  Michele Cameron Drew, Dec 31, 2008
Beautiful architecture for a beautiful write. You know Francois, sometimes I think that I was just born way too late and on the wrong side of the pond. :)

Happy New Year, my friend.

-M
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